Beer and Brewer Magazine

Fair enough he dumped most of his best beer down the drain, but he's paid his penance, mentoring many new brewers around him. As told to Neil Miller.

IN a cruel twist of fate, award-winning brewer Richard Emerson threw away most of the best beer he ever made. He made a beer with Vierka Munich yeast but says it "was terrible to ferment and didn't taste that great after two months in the bottle." Needing the bottles, he dumped virtually all the beer down the drain. The two dozen he kept sat forgotten for a year.

When he returned to New Zealand, he recalls his Dad pouring him "this wonderful glass of sparkling clear beer with huge fluffy head." Even after sniffing and tasting it, Richard was adamant the beer was Duvel. Only when he saw the actual bottles did he realise it was his abandoned beer. Even today, discussing the loss of his wonderful beer provokes an anguished sigh.

Richard is the founder and head brewer of Emerson's Brewery in Dunedin. There is no hesitation when asked about his brewing influences. "That's easy," he replies, "Michael Jackson and his World Guide to Beer. It was a fantastic source of information which inspired me to try the imported beer examples, taste them and think about the flavours."

His first brew was not overly auspicious. Fresh out of school, Richard had lived in Edinburgh for a year "enjoying the Scottish ales." Once back home, he found it "damn hard to drink Kiwi beers" so he made his first beer using Maltxo Amber Malt Extract. He describes it as "ok, but not the flavours that I was looking for" so quickly progressed to full grain brewing.

Since then, Richard has gone on to become New Zealand's most decorated craft brewer and the head of the Brewers Guild. His 1812 IPA famously appeared in Michael Jackson's hugely influential Great Beer Guide.

The secret to making quality beer, he says, is to use "the best ingredients and apply the good old pint test. Does it have a wow factor? Could I drink four pints of this?"

Chris O'Leary, a highly decorated brewer himself, says Richard cares about brewers and is always prepared to mentor and advise them. "His passion and zest for life is infectious and drives his brewing. He is a breath of fresh air in a world of commercial selfishness," says Chris.

As well as this passion, Chris is amazed at Richard's "ability to taste, smell and visualise the beer in the glass on brew day! He doesn't rely on fancy processes and specifications as much as his palate and eyes. Richard is truly an artisan."

A competitor when he was running the Limburg brewery, Chris is now working with Richard at Emerson's. Their friendship and rivalry helped drive up the standards of craft beer in New Zealand.

They have very different brewing approaches with Chris saying "while I'm trying to correct mash temperature, pH and runoff rate, he'll be sniffing and tasting the runoff for malt character and gravity". Chris is confident their styles will work together and the beers they make "will blow people's wellies off."

Richard is openly enthusiastic about new brewers with great potential like Ralph Bungard from Three Boys Brewery and Steve Nally of Invercargill Breweries, also in the deep South.

Steve believes Richard "is a brewer with contagious passion and enthusiasm. He's an inspiration, someone who has done the hard yards and proved it is possible to live your dream. He has always encouraged me, been very giving of himself. He has shown me that you need to be passionate about beer and this passion will be shown to people in the beers you brew".

When Steve won a gold medal at the recent BrewNZ Beer Awards, he recalls Richard running up and hugging him. Steve says "you'd almost think Richard had won the medal he was so happy for me. It reminded me how privileged I am to have him as a friend."

When describing Richard, the word "passion" is always at the top of people's list. While his energy, encouragement and palate are also frequently mentioned, Richard is also famous for his sense of humor. His deadpan delivery lasts only a few seconds after the punch line before a huge smile lights up his entire face and a big laugh bursts forth. This very sense of fun is infectious - it is hard not to enjoy yourself when Richard is holding court.

He is serious though about continuing to improve the beer scene in New Zealand which he thinks has been steadily getting better. High on his wish list are "more hoppy brews showcasing New Zealand and American hops. These will attract a new breed of beer customers who are more interested in life beyond the typical Kiwi sweet brown beer."

The addition of Chris to the Emerson's team has given Richard a new lease of life. He is constantly dreaming up new beers like his JP Belgian ale and a chocolate rye beer to complement his extensive range. The good news is that he has no intention of slowing down. "I will only stop making beer in Heaven. I hear they don't make beer there so I better enjoy it while I can."

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